Seychellois Creole cooking sits at the intersection of African, Indian, French and Chinese influence. Three centuries of trade have all left their fingerprints. The base is fresh fish (often caught that morning), the spices are South Indian, the rice is steamed, and the chilli is real.
The dishes to learn
- Kari koko. Fish or chicken curry in coconut milk, with turmeric, tamarind, lemongrass and red chilli. The national dish, more or less.
- Grilled bourgeois. Red snapper grilled whole, with lemon and chilli. Simple, expensive, perfect on Praslin and Mahé alike.
- Octopus curry. Locally caught, slow-cooked, served with rice and chatini (a chunky chutney). The single dish most people remember.
- Lentil dal. The South Indian heritage running through Creole cooking. Eat with rice or chapati.
- Satini. Chilli-shallot-tomato relish that comes with most meals. Order more.
- Ladob. Green plantain or breadfruit in coconut milk and sugar. A dessert that doesn’t taste like one at first.
- Coconut crab (cipayes). Endemic to the outer islands, only legal to eat at specific licensed restaurants. Once in a lifetime.
Where to eat at each price point
Local takeaway (SCR 80–180)
Look for the “takeaway” signs across Victoria and Beau Vallon. Fish curry with rice, lentil dal, salad, all for under SCR 200. Marie-Antoinette in Victoria is the institutional name but every neighbourhood has one. The fish market in Victoria has fresh seafood and a few stalls cooking it in the upstairs balcony at lunch.
Mid-range restaurants (SCR 300–700)
Boat House in Beau Vallon (Creole barbecue buffet on Wednesday and Saturday, with live drumming. The best food evening on the island for the price). La Plage on Beau Vallon beach. La Perle Noire in Beau Vallon for a slightly fancier sit-down. Chez Plume on the south coast (Anse Boileau). Chez Jules on La Digue. Café des Arts on Praslin.
Resort and signature (SCR 1,500+)
Saffron at Banyan Tree (Thai). Maharajas at Constance Ephelia (Indian). Cinq Sens at Hilton Northolme. Capricorn on Praslin’s east coast (book ahead, sunset table). 5 Spices in Anse Soleil (one of the most photogenic dining spots on Mahé, takes vegetarian seriously).
Drinks
- Takamaka rum. Mahé-distilled, three varieties (white, dark, coconut). The dark is the one. Tour the distillery in La Plaine St-André if you have a spare morning.
- Seybrew. The local lager. Light, cold, good with everything.
- Calou. Fermented coconut sap, very local, mildly alcoholic, drunk at small village events.
- Fresh fruit juice. Passion fruit (called grenadelle locally), mango, papaya, soursop. Stalls everywhere.
What’s actually in season
| Catch | Best months |
|---|---|
| Bourgeois (red snapper) | Year-round, peaks April–September |
| Job fish | October–April |
| Tuna (yellowfin) | April–September |
| Wahoo | November–March |
| Octopus | Year-round |
| Lobster | Closed season Nov–Feb; eat March–October |
Frequently asked questions
Is Seychelles food spicy?
It can be. Creole curries usually have a real chilli kick, but most restaurants will tone it down on request. Ask for satini on the side rather than mixed in.
What about vegetarians and vegans?
Lentil dal, chatini, vegetable curries and breadfruit dishes are mainstays of Creole cooking. Vegetarian travel is easy. Vegan needs more care; the coconut-milk curries often use butter or cream.
Can I drink the tap water?
Yes on Mahé and Praslin (it’s clean municipal water), although many travellers stick to bottled for the taste. On La Digue and the outer islands, use bottled.
Where do locals eat?
Lunchtime takeaways. Every village has one or two. The fish market upstairs in Victoria at lunch. Boat House on Wednesday/Saturday. The roadside fish-grill stalls that pop up around Bel Ombre and Anse Royale on Friday evenings.